Thursday, September 27, 2007

Fleeing Florence and the Freaking Rain

Friday, September 28, 2007. Breakfast room, Hotel Azzi.

Florence has become depressing and dreary.

The rest of yesterday was pretty much a wet soggy write-off. I tried going for a couple of walks, one in the morning, and one in the afternoon, but the rain kept coming down, and the thunder was a bit disconcerting, too. Frankly, I find Florence a depressing city when it’s raining. The cold, the wet, the grey. The tourists flock to the museums and churches to escape the rain; finding solace in even the smallest, nondescript church becomes an exercise in crowd control. The cobblestones get slippery and even more difficult to walk on. The dampness gets everywhere, settles in the bones and seeps into the brain.

To keep myself in high spirits, and to shake off the rainy day blues, I’ve been reading Adam and Jen’s blog: http://jenadamadventures.blogspot.com/ If you haven’t read it lately, check it out for some recent updates of their travels in Croatia and Italy. And if you haven’t read it yet, where the heck have you been? Read through & enjoy! Leave a comment or three! (Oh yah, and for you die-hard Lisa fans, there’s a picture of me in there, too. Heh.)

Today, will be fleeing the rain in Florence for more rain in the Tuscan countryside. Tagging along with Adam and Jen, and hoping to visit some wineries for some wine tastings. So if you don’t hear from me in the next few days… you'll know why...

Breakfast and Rain Storms

Thursday, September 27, 2007.

Wow. Huge breakfast spread here. Well, at least huge comparatively speaking. There’s bread for toast, and rolls, and sweet croissants. Strong black coffee and tea. Juice, milk, water. Cereal and sweet cookies. Butter, cream cheese, jam. Ham, cheese, even brie! I wish I could sneak Adam and Jen in here for breakfast (their hotel doesn’t supply it)—but it looks like they’ve got a tracking system here; all of the guests’ names are listed on a chalk board and as new people come down for breakfast, the attendant crosses off their names. Well, we could always pretend they’re the Figueroa couple or something, heh.

Last night was a quiet evening. After a simple meal of pizza and wine/beer, we headed back to our hotels for an early night. On the way back to the hotel, it started raining (it had been raining earlier in the evening, before dinner, and I thought, ugh, I guess I’ll have to find a street vendor and buy an umbrella so I don’t get soaked). And as I’d predicted a bunch of street vendors showed up on various street corners selling umbrellas. Bought one for 5 euro—probably a rip off but it was better than the alternative of getting soaking wet. And it’s nice and small and compact, so easy to pack in my backpack, too. I’m sure I’ll need it once I get to Paris.

After dinner, came back to the hotel and did some photo updates, commentary, and writing. Got super sleepy around 930pm or so, so I closed my eyes for a bit… and promptly dozed off (that’s the problem with doing all my writing from bed). I woke around midnight (I think?), and noticed the rain coming down in buckets—then the thunder and lightning started. I can’t remember the last time I witnessed a thunder and lightning storm. Waaaaay cool. Too bad I was too sleepy to get up and enjoy it properly (which means running around outside naked in the rain hoping to get struck by lightning. kidding. no, really.).

I’ve finished breakfast and am writing in my hotel room. Wow. It’s really coming down now. It rains in Vancouver, but it’s usually a pissy, drizzly kinda rain that sorta lasts all day without really giving up. Here, in Florence, the rain comes down in sheets for short bursts, then stops. Then starts up again with no warning. Just a few minutes ago, there was also the boom of thunder, seemingly right above my head. What’s odd is that it’s also sunny, and I can see outside my window that the clouds are moving quite quickly eastward. I wonder if there’s a rainbow somewhere. Oh, I just saw some lightning… and there’s more thunder. Yowsers. And it’s only 930am! (if i've uploaded this video correctly, you should be able to hear the rain that was falling in the courtyard outside my room, and a boom of thunder, too...)

David Gawking, Dome Walking, and Market Shopping

Wednesday, September 26, 2007

Morning, met Adam and Jen, and after breakfast we headed over to the Galleria Accademia to see the statue of David by Michelangelo. M’s unfinished statues were fascinating as well—many appeared contorted, tense, and writhing, and seemed to be slowly extracting themselves from the marble. If I looked away slightly, out of the corner of my eye, I thought I could see them twisting and slowly emerging… But really, the highlight of the gallery was David. Big hands, big feet, big head (no comments please, heh). I sat and stared for at least 10 minutes, and watched various tour groups float in, peer at the statue, listen to commentary from their guides, then float away. Oh yeah, there were other works of art there, too, musical instrument exhibition, yadda yadda, some plaster castings of other statues, blah blah, some paintings, yadda yadda… (Am I getting museumed out? Well, if you’d seen a half dozen museums in as many days, wouldn’t you?) No pictures, unfortunately. But we’ve all seen David anyway, right?

Next stop was the Dome of the Duomo. We’d intended (I think?) to head to the line up for the church, but passed by another entrance, which lead to the dome and had a non-existent lineup. Without hesitation, Adam steered us inside, and before I could protest my fear of heights… too late. We were in. *gulp*
Dome climb highlights:
- Lots of steps. Yeesh, a heck of a lotta steps.
- Dark corridors. Lots of steps in dark corridors.
- And spiral staircases too. Getting dizzy, and winded.
- More steps.
- Small windows cut into the walls, so we could peer outside and get fresh air. (breathe!)
- More steps.
- More spiral steps.
- Dodging a few down-climbers who’d gotten their fill.
- Legs aching. But no hip displacements thank goodness.
- A few more steps, then…
- At the top, bright light, and oh, the view.
- After shaking off the shakes (and not looking too far down—look to the horizon, look to the horizon! Don’t look down!), managed to snap a few photos.
- Adam took one of me gripping the railing, as proof I’d made it.
- Must admit, the view was breathtaking. Or maybe I was just winded from the long climb.

We then hunted down the sandwich shop we had passed yesterday afternoon during our walk—The Oil Shoppe—and we had lunch there. I had the proscuitto and tomato sandwich on wheat, which was very tasty.
The afternoon was free time. Adam was going to do some research, Jen was going to get her hair cut, and “Lisa is going to do whatever Lisa is going to do.” So we all split up and went our separate ways.

I went shopping. After a brief rest at the hotel, and a bit of writing, I headed out around 2pm to do some shopping and some wandering around. Bought a bunch of stuff for the family unit—but of course, now, I have a bunch more stuff to pack and lug around with me for the rest of my trip. Ah well, at least I wont be lugging it around too much (I hope).

I wonder if Florence turns everyone into a shopping fiend (or, in my case, more of a shopping fiend).

After shopping in the market, I wandered down to the Ponte Vecchio, with the intention of buying a gelato and standing in the sun on the bridge, taking in the view while eating my ice cream. Got a tiramisu cone. Perfetto; YUM. But it was brutal windy out, and I had to turn away from the wind a few times, to protect myself.

Then did a bit of walking around on the south side of the river—not much there at first blush (but I hadn’t really ventured out that far) except more shopping, so I turned around and came back over the bridge. Wandered around a bit more, and decided to head back home. Managed to find a couple of streets that looked familiar, and walked back in the general direction of my hotel. Took my time, and stepped into some shops along the way, as things caught my fancy.

Now it’s started to rain. And I don’t have an umbrella...

Photos at Uffizi, Tombs at Santa Maria Croce, and Confusion at Coquinarius



Tuesday, September 25, 2007.

We met for breakfast at quarter after 7 in the morning, at a corner café near our hotels. After cappuccino and pastries, we headed off to line up for the Uffizi.

Seemed we got there at a good time. Not too far back in line. By the time they let us in at 915am (we’d been there since about 730am or so), the line up had stretched way behind us. But we got in after not too long a wait, thankfully. I tried to take some photos, without realizing that photos weren’t permitted (oops). At one point, I was about to snap a photo of a diptych, when a security dude threw his hand in front of my camera, and said, “Non!” Yikes. I thought he was going to slap me in the face. I sheepishly put my camera away.

After the gallery (we spent over two hours wandering around in there), we took a break for some lunch. Found a street café and ordered sandwiches and beverages. After finding a stable wi-fi connection, Adam and Jen did some blog updates, and I did some reading of my Uffizi Gallery book (17 euro and it weighs a TON, but worth it I think). After that, we decided to wander to the Santa Maria Croce, to view the tombs of various famous people, like Galileo, Machiavelli, Leonardo da Vinci, and Michelangelo. And a memorial to Dante (not actually buried there since he’d been exiled years before). Many of my photos, unfortunately, were blurry and unfocused, since I couldn’t use a flash inside the church and I was suffering from shaking hands syndrome again. Ah well.

After all that walking, we took a short break at our hotel rooms, then met for dinner. We ended up going to a restaurant called Coquinarius, an enoteca that also served fantastic food. I ordered the spinach tortelloni (which showed up in a ravioli casing instead?) and Jen ordered the ricotta and pear ravioli (which showed up in a tortelloni casing instead?). And Adam ordered something called, “the Volcano.” At least there was no confusing Adam’s dish—it looked like a volcano. We also shared two bottles of fantastic red wine, upon the recommendation of our waiter. And there was certainly no confusion regarding the wine.

Travel to Florence to Meet Adam and Jen


Monday, September 24, 2007.

Monday morning, woke early to have breakfast and check email. Unfortunately, the signal from the breakfast room was pretty weak so I didn’t check much. Went back to my room to clean up, then went for a short walk around the neighbourhood, to take a few last photos of Rome.

When I got back to the hotel, finished packing the rest of my stuff, did a final check of the room, then checked out of the hotel. I then made the long, heavy trek to the train station. Long and heavy, because of the weight of my packs. It seemed to take twice as long to walk anywhere.

Once at the train station, I checked the electronic boards to see where my train would be boarding. Track 4, according to the printed schedule, but the electronic schedule didn’t have the train listed yet—I was too early. So I leaned patiently against one of the railings and waited.

At one point, I thought I should probably ask someone if I should be validating my train ticket. I hunkered down to spy on others at the validation machines, to see if anyone else were doing so. Yes, indeed, there were, so I decided I would too. What would it hurt if I did, and didn’t have to? However, it would hurt 50 euro or so if I didn’t and got caught. So I validated it, then waited some more.

Train ride was uneventful--an elderly couple sitting in front of me dozed most of the way, and the fellow sitting in the seat next to me looked like a businessman intent on reading his newspaper, so I contented myself with staring out the window at the countryside. The trip took about an hour and a half, and I arrived at Santa Maria Novella station in Florence just after 11am. Time to meet Adam and Jennifer!!

Except, when I got off the train, I didn’t see them. So I started walking toward the exit, all the time scanning the crowd for a familiar face. Still nothing. I ended up walking right out to the taxi stand in front of the station, and waited there, thinking they might be a bit late. Nope. Nothing. Nada.

Finally, after about 20 minutes had gone by, I decided to give Adam’s cell phone a call. He answered, and I let him know where I was. He said, don’t move, we’ll meet you there.

And then there they were! Yay!

After greetings and hugs, we made our way to my hotel, checked in, and checked out my room. Bigger than the others I’d had in Rome, but with fewer niceties—no tv, for instance, and no shower stall—only a showerhead and faucets in the wall next to the sink, and a drain in the floor! But at least the room was clean, and the view from my window was lovely, too. Home sweet home.

Cleaned up, then met them for lunch. On the way, we wandered through the extensive street market, where vendors sold everything from leather purses to leather jackets, postcards and stationery to jewelry and sunglasses. And almost every other stall sold pashimas and scarves. Ahh, shopping!

For lunch, we went to the Mercato Centrale, sort of a Florentine version of Granville Island market. Vendors for wine, cheese, wine, fruits & veggies, meats and delis, wine, and small cafes and restaurants, too, with wine. We sat at one of the restaurants (“Porks” was the name, believe it or not—no funny comments, Chris and Stephen!), and ordered a bottle of Chianti, a bottle of water, and I had gnocchi al ragu (meat sauce and garlic). It was the best tasting Chianti and gnocchi I’d had in a very long time.


After lunch, we went for a short walk, and as we approached an intersection, we had to stop for traffic. Over my left shoulder, I suddenly saw the Duomo, and gasped. Adam and Jen laughed out loud at my reaction. They commented that that reaction was quite common among tourists, and that many have distractedly wandered into oncoming traffic because they have been so overwhelmed by the sight.


I took a ton of photos, needless to say.

After that, we split for a couple of hours, so Jen could go shoe shopping, Adam could go wi-fi hunting, and I could just go wander around. So I did. I wandered around snapping a hundred photos of everything I could see. I visited the Loggia della Signoria, in the Piazza della Signoria, in front of the Palazzo Vecchio. The beautiful statues were breathtaking; I snapped a bunch of photos. I wandered to the Ponte Vecchio, and snapped more photos there.

When we met up an hour later, I suggested that we tour the Palazzo Vecchio together, so we did. I took more photos in there.

Then we went for a coffee break/siesta. Adam had his gelato, Jen had her cappuccino, and I had my Orvieto wine. Yum.

After a short break of a couple of hours back at our respective hotel rooms, I met Adam and Jen back at their hotel room, to do some trip planning for Venice and some wine drinking before dinner. Both accomplished successfully, I think, after Adam had a panicked attack of… well, I’ll let Adam and Jen share that story, I think.

Then we went for dinner. Wandered around looking for a specific restaurant that Adam and Jen had wanted to visit, but found that it was closed. So, we wandered around a bit more, and found another “ristorante” and settled in there. We ordered a bottle of pinot grigio, and good food—we were all stuffed. It was quite late by the time we made our way home. I stumbled into bed and was asleep in a few minutes.

Wednesday, September 26, 2007

Sometimes You Get What You Want Without Trying

Sunday, September 23, 2007

Another full day—mellow, but full. Started off needing to do something, not really expecting anything, and getting a pleasant surprise in the afternoon.

After finishing breakfast, took my laptop back to my room and headed out to the train station to reserve my train ticket to Florence for tomorrow. Got through relatively painlessly (the reservation cost an additional 15 euro), confirmed I got the right ticket, and wandered back outside. It was still only quarter to nine. What to do.

I wandered around aimlessly a bit, just enjoying the relative quiet of the morning, and the cool air. Decided to step into the Chiesa Santa Maria degli Angeli again. Took a few shots inside, sat for a bit. Gave a coin to the woman sitting outside, nursing her daughter and begging for change.
Then went for a walk. Wandered around up & down streets, not really looking for anything, and not really finding anything, either. But it felt good to walk.

Wandered down via Nazionale, with no real destination in mind.

Circled around and back, and went to the National Museum. Used my RomaPass to get in free, checked through security quickly, and started off exploring. Took a bunch of photos of statues, heads, torsos. A sarcophagus or two. Some mosaics and frescoes. (I’m getting museumed out, I think.) Then left.

After lunch, wasn’t sure what to do, but headed out again anyway. Had vague idea that I wanted to buy a bottle of regional wine that I could share with Adam and Jen when I got to Florence. I’d read that the frascati wine, a white, was from the Lazio region around Rome, and was a good, reasonably priced wine. Had wanted to buy a bottle last night, but my nighttime wanderings did not yield any fruit, and I was frustrated. So I didn’t hold out much hope of finding anything today, either.

Wandered down via delle Quattro Fontane, with the intention of heading to the Spanish Steps again, to just hang out with the crowds of tourists in the sunshine. As I passed the cafes and stores and shops—most of which were closed, because it was Sunday—I stumbled across one that was open, and lo! And behold! I saw bottles on wine on the shelf. Right in front of my face.

The shopkeeper was sweeping up outside. I stepped inside, and started examining the wine bottles. I automatically grabbed a random red—the shopkeeper promptly recommended it to me, saying it was a very good wine. I thanked him, and asked him in Italian how much it cost ("quanto costa?"). He told me, by pointing to the price label on the bottle. Ah, grazie. And then I spotted a frascati. Bingo.

After a bit of conversing and small talk—most of it by him, in Italian and some broken English—I bought the wine. I thanked him profusely, and said goodbye. He said, ciao, and “a domani.” I laughed, and repeated my thanks.

Ah, success! Finally! I had a grin on my face all the way down the street.

When I finished loafing around the Spanish Steps and the Trinita dei Monti, I finally wandered back down the street (I had the idea that I would buy another bottle from the same shop), and noticed that the store was closed. A bit of disappointment, but I was glad for the lucky break, for stumbling into it in the first place.

The awning, I noticed, read, “Bar San Carlino”—I made note, so I could visit next time I was in Rome.